Bukowski?

We recently followed an invite for the Christmas market at the animal shelter, where we had picked up our mutt Hilda. The staff was more than pleased to see how happy Hilda is now with her new masters. There were many other former 'inmates' with their new owners and it turned out to be a nice get-together. 

In order to eventually escape the crowds we visited the old town core of Andernach thereafter. When we walked along the river Rhine I came across a sign that piqued my interest. 

Although I know of the writer Charles Bukowski I was not aware of the fact that he was born in this very city. I am not a fan of his crude style but there are a few quotes that resonate with me, especially with everything that is going on with the world.

- We’re all going to die, all of us, what a circus! That alone should make us love each other but it doesn’t. -

- The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence. -

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Andernach is one of Germany’s oldest towns (founded around 300 years B.C. by celts), and is located on the banks of the Rhine River. It is known for its well-preserved medieval walls, historic old town, and the world’s tallest cold-water geyser, the Andernach Geyser (you can only get there by boat and the area is now closed for the season). 

St. Mary's Cathedral (late 12th century)

City fortifications around 12-15th century

While strolling through the pedestrian zone another couple with a dog approached us recognising our dog. They were neighbours of Hildas old master and told us that Hilda didn't have the best life, because her previous owner could barely walk, and Hilda kept barking at everything and everybody because she was under-challenged and not well trained. They were totally happy for her that she found a good new home. 

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T'is the Season and Christmas Markets are popping up everywhere in the valley. The only thing we're missing is the white stuff. Anyway, there will be punch, and glühwein, and eggnog, split roast, bratwurst and potato fritters with salmon. Good times!

Ahrweiler Christmas Market

***

And after (only) four years, train services have resumed through the Ahr Valley, restoring a vital transport link after severe damage from the catastrophic flood back in July 2021, caused by extreme rainfall that led the Ahr River to overflow. Entire towns were devastated, infrastructure was destroyed, and over 180 people lost their lives, making it one of Germany’s deadliest natural disasters in decades. The reopening of the Ahrtalbahn marks an important step in regional recovery, reconnecting communities and supporting daily travel and tourism. The show must go on!

Wishing you a festive holiday season!

Autumn River Valley

Fall slipped into the valley quietly, without much fuss. You wouldn’t notice it at first, it starts as a dry murmur in the vines and trees, a restless shiver through the leaves saying, it’s time. 

Then the slopes turn gold and crimson, the color of old coins, and rust on iron gates. The sun falls sooner each day. When it brushes the hillsides now, the vineyards catch fire, with colours too sharp to last, as if the world had been overpainted by someone drunk on light.

Fog climbs from the river in the evenings. It doesn’t hurry. It rolls slow between the rows of vines, nosing into the courtyards, thickening in the alleys where the footsteps of late walkers lose their sound. The air carries the sour-sweet stench of crushed grapes, fermenting must, half promise, half rot.

They say that autumn brings life back to the valley: the new wines, the visitors, the music in the park. Laughter leaking from the taverns until the fog smothers it. But if you stay late enough, if you stand by the river when the moon hangs low, you might hear something else beneath the water, a voice, maybe wind rustling in the vines, maybe something older, patient, waiting its turn.

"All's right with the world!" - Robert Browning

Day Three:

Today, my journey takes me through the Schönecker Schweiz, and it truly is a beautiful corner. After my husband drops me off, immediately a great single trail takes me uphill. Even though asphalt and forest roads are reappearing on the high plains, this section is fantastic. Sometimes I walk uphill, then again through a creek valley.

Through the trees, I keep catching glimpses of quirky rock formations… a preview of what’s still to come. A sign tells of an ancient Celtic castle. With a bit of good will, you can see the remnants of a rampart on the hill.

In the next valley, there's a hint of garlic in the air. Apparently, a wonderful wild garlic carpet blooms here in spring. For the first time, I come across a shelter in the middle of the forest; all previous ones were always located nearby parking areas. However, my break in this wetland is brief because I immediately get attacked by horseflies.

Once again, I hike uphill and head towards a desert… at least, that’s what the huge sand pile on the horizon looks like. But the path turns to the right and leads me into a nearly mystical area, the Steinerne Meer (sea of rocks) of Walbert. The impressive rock towers and formations fascinate me.

Eventless but still beautiful, I continue over fields, forests, and meadows. The markings are not always sufficient, so I download the GPX track just in case. Thanks to Belgian network coverage, that’s no problem. It's the German network that isn't available, thanks for nothing Telekom.

For the first time, the destination of the Schneifel Trail appears on the way markers: The city of Gerolstein! Unfortunately, until then, it’s hiking on a "forest highway". The highlight of this section awaits near Birresborn in the ice caves, which can be visited outside of bat protection times. Thanks to my headlamp, I can venture quite far inside. The air suddenly becomes cold and damp. I crawl through a narrow passage. Everywhere, water drips from the ceiling, and down my neck. If rocks could talk… From the ice storage, through the quarrying of millstones, to a refuge in times of need and war, the cave has seen it all.

ice caves

Only two more kilometers to go today, which are spiced up with an educational trail. The path is wide, and the descent is gentle. There’s still time for a draft-pulled Radler at the inn Zur Krone, then the SEV (train replacement bus service) takes me to Gerolstein, where I have made reservations in the local youth hostel.

Birresborn

A quick stop at a supermarket makes my backpack heavy; I still need to carry the treats uphill. With all my last strength and a tongue hanging to the ground, I finally arrive at the hostel, check in, and enjoy a long shower before indulging in the goodies I brought along.

Day four:

Breakfast at half past seven, on the trail at eight o’clock, the bus takes me back to Birresborn. Here, I climb a steep trail upwards. The path is beautiful but unremarkable, especially since after crossing the Kyll river, there’s no water or valley views. The last ascent is tough again; I struggle uphill over a roughly gravelly dirt road. Afterwards, I continue on boring, almost straight forest tracks. Here’s the Grafenkreuz (Count’s Cross), there the forest chapel Büsch, then I’m back at the youth hostel and quickly descend the hill to Gerolstein center. The train has already arrived in its track. Five minutes later, I am on my way home... good timing. And all is right with the world, indeed.

Back in Birresborn

River Kyll

Count's cross

Büsch chapel

View on Gerolstein