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Showing posts with label Mosel-Camino. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mosel-Camino. Show all posts

August 08, 2022

Moselle Camino - continued (Day 2 to 7)


Day two presented a rollercoaster of trails while criss-crossing vineyards and conquering hills. Most famous sight is Castle Eltz, a medieval castle from the 12th century and still owned by the same family branch since 33 generations. It had never been destroyed or conquered and is a tourist magnet, hence crowded. At Trail-Karden I met friendly folks from the local voluntary fire brigade, who sold beverages for a good cause (mine having been quenching my thirst). The last ascent was quite a stretch. Finally I arrived at abbey Maria Engelport, (founded 1220) where I encountered a young priest who invited me to stay in one of their rooms, instead of camping out in their backyard. 






Day three was a tough one, my right foot had developed a blister, and walking was painful until I had found remedy at a pharmacy. The trail was in bad shape, and sometimes a machete would have been nice to have. But the village of Beilstein was a great reward, the little town was picturesque and almost unchanged over the turn of the centuries. In Bullay I found a campground and enjoyed great food and a local wine spritzer.







Day four wasn't a good hiking day in my books due to the fact that I had to walk through vineyards all day, which isn't ugly per say but at almost 40°C / 104°F and with limited water sources it became unbearable at times. At Traben-Trarbach I found a typical Camino hostel where I freshened up and spent the rest of the day in the shadows.






On day five I temporarily had another pilgrim couple for company, and small talk made for an easy walk. The first part of the trail was mostly through forested areas offering some protection from the heat. The second part was again through vineyards without shelter or water. When I reached the village of Osann-Monzel I checked into a B&B and spent half an hour under a cold shower to cool down. The food at this place was awesome by the way.








Day six was the best day in my Camino book. At every other water hole I met the hiking couple, temperatures were more moderate and the trail offered eclectic views and sights, and mostly lead through forests. I found a campground in Klüsserath and went to a pizza-place managed by an Eastern Indian couple. While my Camigos were less excited about their pizza and pasta, I was raving about their palak chicken curry!



 






Day seven, the last day on trail. The thunderstorm at night left me unharmed, I basically slept through it. Meanwhile I must have developed my trail-legs (or the trail got easier...). I swept through hills and valleys, passed the villages Schweich, then Ehrang and Biewer, and finally the suburbs of Trier. It's getting urban and noisier and needed some adaptation from my side. One last time I crossed the Moselle and followed some side roads to the St. Matthias Basilika, a Romanesque church from the 12th century. I made it! Life is good!










Moselle Camino - The Beginning

The word camino means route in Spanish, and is often associated with the Camino Frances a.k.a. St. James Way, the popular walk to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. However, since the early days of pilgrimage people had to start from somewhere, and so there has been a whole network of trails leading west.

River Moselle springs from the Vosges Mountains in France and empties into river Rhine at Koblenz after 545 km as one of its main left-hand tributaries. The region is well known for their medieval castles and monasteries, their romantic vineyards and their award-winning wines.

The Moselle Camino of today is one of those re-discovered ancient routes. This section of the camino trail network spans over 160 km / 100 mi. and its topography provides about 4.500/14,800 - sometimes painful - meters/feet in elevation. Its journey starts at the confluence of the two rivers in Koblenz, follows the Moselle upstream and leads to the last resting place of Apostle Matthew in Trier. 

The journey begins with a little sightseeing in Koblenz, a city rich with history from early mankind to Celts, Romans and throughout the middle ages, alas heavily destroyed in WWII.

Deutsches Eck - German corner

Let's go!

Fortress Ehrenbreitstein

Emperor William statue

St. Kastor Basilika

Rhine as seen from fortress


Confluence of Moselle and Rhine

Koblenz old city




Trailhead at castle Stolzenfels. The only way is up!


Castle Stolzenfels



Chapel Bleidenberg


Castle Turant

Moselle at Hatzenport

In the village of Hatzenport I found a B&B for a reasonable price given it's high season, and called it a day.