Hilda coped well during the eight hour drive down into the heart of France, spending her time mostly snoozing, only to be interrupted by frequent potty breaks.
The weather is awesome, sunny, blue skies, with temperatures around 20°C, ideal for hiking, as I am continuing my trek on the way of St. James with hubby and Hilda serving as part-time company, entertainment and trail taxi.
Day one: Back in Cluny
The founding of the monastery in the 10th century sparked the Benedictine reform in Cluny, through which the monastery life, which had become too worldly, was steered back onto clear religious and moral paths. Only two centuries later, the mother house counted over 1,000 monasteries and became, in the Middle Ages, one of the most important and influential religious movements. I listen to myself, but this time I feel no particular “vibes” that sometimes overwhelm me at historically significant places. Cluny is today a nice place in Burgundy, nothing more (at least for me...).
Day two: The cloudy way to Tramayes
The region is not only famous for its wine but also for the Charolais beef (mostly from free roaming cattle). It is not cheap but so good! The trail follows a hill crest and although elevation itself is low, it adds up over distance.
Day three: Mounting the pass (Col de Crie)
I am walking through dew, getting wet feet but the sun's out and all is well with the world. The path leads up into the Massif Central, which is specifically popular with the pedal powered two-wheel crowd. Lots of spandex warriors on the road (thankfully not on my trail).
Day four: Ain't no mountain high enough
Today's goal is the climb (okay: walk) up to Mount Saint Rigaud, with 1,012 m the highest point of my Way of St. James so far! It's a long way up... Note to myself: Continue improving fitness! Highlight of the day is the holy spring on top of the mountain which is supposed to have healing properties. Maybe it will work for my Charley Horse as well, oh boy, that hurts!
Day five: Rolling downhill
The trail leads gently through fields and farmland down to Charlieu where I visit the former abbey with foundations stemming from the 9th century. In Briennon I say hello again to the river Loire.
Day six: Crossing the Loire valley
The trail remains mostly flat today. La Benisson Dieu abbey must have been a very impressive sight back in the days. The village of Saint-Haon-le-Chatel is a perfect specimen for the typical rustic architecture of the region.
Day seven: Entering the next mountain range (Auvergne)
The area is getting hillier again but with moderate elevation gain. I am now in the heart of Beaujolais country, a red wine that comes with a light, fruity, and fresh aroma of red berries. Saint-Alban-les-Eaux is popular for its mineral water and had been a spa town in the old days. In Saint-Jean-Saint-Maurice-sur-Loire, another picturesque village I finish this section of the Camino after 140 kms.
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| View on the Massif Central |
Further impressions from the road:
Cluny
Tramayes
Cenves
Col de Crie
Charolles
A free roaming and happy dog!
A hike to the Pisserote falls (with a canine guide)
A hike at the Barrage de la Tache
What a wonderful trip!
