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Showing posts with label Pfälzer Höhenweg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pfälzer Höhenweg. Show all posts

June 06, 2022

Hiking the Palatinate Highlands

Youth Hostel ahead!

A long weekend, a fair weather forecast and a husband away on a guy outing made for a great recipe for another solo project. This time I opted for the Palatinate ridge trail (Pfälzer Höhenweg), with 112 km (70 mi) and 3300 m (10800 ft) in elevation doable in 3 to 4 days.

Breakfast buffet at youth hotel

Way marker

Castle New Wolfstein
Castle Old Wolfstein

View back on Wolfstein

My little walk-about began in Wolfstein where, contrary to the youth hostels' reputation, I had a very quiet and pleasant stay with a view plus an excellent breakfast. While ascending I left two castle ruins overlooking the sleepy town behind. When I entered the forest I was welcomed by the enthusiastic chirping of birds. Other than that it was quiet, and I had it all to myself.

Blaue Halde - spring

Lauterecken

Meisenheim
 
In the town of Lauterecken I stopped for a lunch break at the river Glan, before climbing the next hill. The Palatinate 'meseta' made for a hard walk on farm roads, there was no shade, no shelter and not even a seating for the next several miles until I reached Meisenheim, a picturesque village but very touristy. Soon countless uneven steps took me back into the hills, where I found the perfect spot for my tent.

A long road walk

I rose early and felt rested. First mission today had to be water resupply but the next village Callbach did not even offer a working fountain, and this early I could not ask anyone. Well, next town was a mere 8 km away. When I arrived in Obermoschel after another hard walk on rocks and rubble I was parched but I found a bakery, had breakfast, filled up my water bottles and even got power for my mobile phone.

Moschellandsburg


Another ascent lead me to Moschellandsburg, a castle ruin from the 12th century, and along a vineyard. It was colder than anticipated, and I was exposed to strong crosswinds while continuing my hike over the next ridge. Then it started to rain. 

When I came to a neat little hut near a farm house I could not believe what I saw: a self-service station for hikers, with a fridge full of beverages, fresh water, a water kettle for coffee or tea, little snacks, and several power outlets for mobile devices. I spent almost two hours in this hiker's paradise, just to get a break from the high winds.


With renewed motivation I moved on. After several more pointless ups and downs I came across a shelter with a perfect view, and decided to stay for the night, and pitched my tent inside, so protected from the weather.

Menhir from unknown origin

Dusk
Dawn

The next day lead me along Roman remains, through more farmland and forest, I passed another town with resupply options and finally reached the Donnersberg region. A bit bored I decided to skip the next 10 km of road walk and took public transit to Winnweiler to continue my treck from there. A good decision because from there the hike got better: single trails, historic mining sites, enough seating and shelters for breaks, Celtic remains, excellent views and a rustic tavern for a great (culinary) finale. 

Eremitage from the 15th century

Old iron mining site

Mouth of mining shaft
Reconstructed Celtic ring wall
SWR radio tower
Ludwig watch tower
Königstuhl ex US military grounds

View from Königstuhl summit
Adlerbogen - Eagle arch
Inn Pfalzblick

Although the Palatinate ridge trail came down to walking on hard surface for miles on end with only a small portion of single tracks for relief, it had offered me solitude and tranquility, and a well deserved (imho) rest from real life's buzz.