"All's right with the world!" - Robert Browning

Day Three:

Today, my journey takes me through the Schönecker Schweiz, and it truly is a beautiful corner. After my husband drops me off, immediately a great single trail takes me uphill. Even though asphalt and forest roads are reappearing on the high plains, this section is fantastic. Sometimes I walk uphill, then again through a creek valley.

Through the trees, I keep catching glimpses of quirky rock formations… a preview of what’s still to come. A sign tells of an ancient Celtic castle. With a bit of good will, you can see the remnants of a rampart on the hill.

In the next valley, there's a hint of garlic in the air. Apparently, a wonderful wild garlic carpet blooms here in spring. For the first time, I come across a shelter in the middle of the forest; all previous ones were always located nearby parking areas. However, my break in this wetland is brief because I immediately get attacked by horseflies.

Once again, I hike uphill and head towards a desert… at least, that’s what the huge sand pile on the horizon looks like. But the path turns to the right and leads me into a nearly mystical area, the Steinerne Meer (sea of rocks) of Walbert. The impressive rock towers and formations fascinate me.

Eventless but still beautiful, I continue over fields, forests, and meadows. The markings are not always sufficient, so I download the GPX track just in case. Thanks to Belgian network coverage, that’s no problem. It's the German network that isn't available, thanks for nothing Telekom.

For the first time, the destination of the Schneifel Trail appears on the way markers: The city of Gerolstein! Unfortunately, until then, it’s hiking on a "forest highway". The highlight of this section awaits near Birresborn in the ice caves, which can be visited outside of bat protection times. Thanks to my headlamp, I can venture quite far inside. The air suddenly becomes cold and damp. I crawl through a narrow passage. Everywhere, water drips from the ceiling, and down my neck. If rocks could talk… From the ice storage, through the quarrying of millstones, to a refuge in times of need and war, the cave has seen it all.

ice caves

Only two more kilometers to go today, which are spiced up with an educational trail. The path is wide, and the descent is gentle. There’s still time for a draft-pulled Radler at the inn Zur Krone, then the SEV (train replacement bus service) takes me to Gerolstein, where I have made reservations in the local youth hostel.

Birresborn

A quick stop at a supermarket makes my backpack heavy; I still need to carry the treats uphill. With all my last strength and a tongue hanging to the ground, I finally arrive at the hostel, check in, and enjoy a long shower before indulging in the goodies I brought along.

Day four:

Breakfast at half past seven, on the trail at eight o’clock, the bus takes me back to Birresborn. Here, I climb a steep trail upwards. The path is beautiful but unremarkable, especially since after crossing the Kyll river, there’s no water or valley views. The last ascent is tough again; I struggle uphill over a roughly gravelly dirt road. Afterwards, I continue on boring, almost straight forest tracks. Here’s the Grafenkreuz (Count’s Cross), there the forest chapel Büsch, then I’m back at the youth hostel and quickly descend the hill to Gerolstein center. The train has already arrived in its track. Five minutes later, I am on my way home... good timing. And all is right with the world, indeed.

Back in Birresborn

River Kyll

Count's cross

Büsch chapel

View on Gerolstein

"Peace can only be found in the forests" - Michelangelo Buonarroti

Three days hiking on the Schneifel-Pfad, or trail of peace. I had assumed that the term Schneifel had something to do with snow (german: Schnee) and the Eifel region, but in fact, it derives from the word "Schneise," meaning "clearing" or "gap," which runs along the same mountain range near the Belgian border and was exposed to territorial conflicts over many centuries, leaving their marks.

Day One:

Recently, when I was on a short vacation with my dog at the Bungalow Park at Kronenburger See, I came across a tattered brochure about the Schneifel Trail, which piqued my interest. Spontaneously, we decided to return to the camp site, this time with our VW camper. Since it was already afternoon, I started the trail at the (non-existent) trailhead in the village Kronenburger Hütte and hiked up to the village of Ormont (French: gold mountain). Initially, the trail runs parallel to a pilgrimage route, ascending the mountain on asphalt, then transitions onto gravel and meadow paths. With a pleasant 22°C, the first few kilometers went by quickly. Alongside the road, I then entered the village and headed straight to the inn “Bei Lonnen,” where I had a dinner date with my Trailmanager. I had Zigeunerschnitzel (Gypsy Schnitzel, yes, that’s what it’s called on the menu). Spicy and delicious! We spent a relaxed evening at the campsite, enjoying the cooling breeze.

Day Two:

The next morning, my husband dropped me off again in Ormont. Here, the Schneifel Trail passes the former Siegfried Line, a Second World War defensive line. The remnants of the tank traps are overgrown with bushes and barely visible, so I content myself with the information on the interpretive panels. Another sign points to a blown-up bunker, but the undergrowth is so dense that I can’t get through. Since the area is fenced off, I refrain from a closer look. The sharp protruding remains of metal beams are warning enough.

On the way to the Schwarzer Mann hill, at 701 meters the highest point in the Schneifel, the trail becomes wonderfully single traily, alas, right next to a busy road filled with the motorized two- and fourwheeled crowds. I stop for a refreshment at the beer garden “Am Blockhaus” and refill my water bottle.

A steep trail with tripping hazards leads me downhill onto a forest road, which is cordoned off with a red-white flag tape. No matter, I think… and walk through. Indeed, the forest here has been somewhat turned upside down, with deep furrows on either side of the path. There are parked forest vehicles and harvesters, and branches and logs are scattered everywhere, but no work is being done today.

After the next ascent, I encounter something I missed on the previous section: a scenic view! A steep asphalt road then takes me down into the village of Gondenbrett. A shady pilgrimage rest area with a picnic table and fountain invites me. A sign indicates that there are toilets for pilgrims and hikers at the St. Dionysius Church, nice gesture.

The trail then leads me up the Katzenkopf (Cat’s Head), which is just as steep but much more trail-like than before. The panorama views from the platform are stunning. I look over to the Calvary Hill, which I still need to get past before reaching my destination: the town Prüm.

In the tunnel system of Calvary Hill, a horrible disaster occurred in 1949 when an explosives depot of the French occupation forces, intended for destroying bunker installations, exploded in a fire, creating a crater in the mountain. I don’t linger long and walk down the asphalt band into the center of Prüm because my bus back to Kronenburg only runs every two hours and doesn't wait for me. I quickly take a finishing photo in front of St. Basil's Basilica and then sprint over to the bus station, arriving just two minutes before departure.

Prüm Basilica

Two ladies on the lam

Kronenburg Reservoir

While Roland ventured off to Sweden for a friend's 60's birthday I was tasked with dog-sitting Hilda. In order to prevent separation anxiety in our four-legged companion I thought it would be best to pack the car and have an adventure of our own.

I found a tiny house village near the Belgian border where we stayed over the long Pentecost weekend, it was a quiet venue located near Hallschlag by lake Kronenburg.

We spent our days exploring the trails, and had a good time although we got a mixed bag of weather, with thunderstorms, high winds and temperatures below 10°C. Hilda was not amused because she still doesn't like to get wet.

We visited castle Kronenburg and the lower village Kronenburgerhütte. The castle ruins stem from the 14th century, some houses surrounding the castle walls are over 400 years old and still being lived in.

Castle Kronenburg

Village Kronenburgerhütte

We hit some beautifully themed trails such as Himmelsglück (Heaven's bliss) with single trails, beautiful vistas and some artsy stuff thrown in for shits and giggles.

The sunsets on our evening walk were rather meh, but at least it didn't rain for a change.

Another themed trail lead us on the Moorpfad (bog trail). A boardwalk leads through a nature reserve explaining the delicate flora and fauna of this high bog. 

Dog walking at 6 a.m.

Dahlem bog trail

Hilda was behaving like a champ and didn't seem to mind that her master was missing. In fact it feels like we have some bonding going on. I hope it will stay that way even when hubby is home again.