Another section hike on the Chemin des Allemandes (the Way of the Germans) awaits.
**Day 1: Nancy**
I begin the day walking my dog, and I can tell she senses something’s different today. After saying goodbye to hubby and Hilda, the bullet train takes me to Nancy where I have to change to a regional transfer. I have a bit time to explore, so I take a quick sightseeing tour of the city, visiting the cathedral and the stunning Place Stanislas. I arrive in Langres early evening, and get to enjoy a delightful dinner at Hotel de l’Europe.
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| Nancy cathedral |
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| Place Diderot, Langres |
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| Dinner in Langres |
**Day 2: Langres to Auberive**
Today’s stage is a tough one, stretching over 30 km. After a solid breakfast and stocking up on supplies at Carrefour, the journey commences. The route has steep descents, forests, reservoirs, and breathtaking views. Since this is a headwater region I encounter quite a few muddy spots which provide a bit of a challenge and make for wet feet. I stop for lunch on a mossy wall as there are no other seating options along the trail. By the time I reach Auberive, I’m ready for a delicious meal, a Bolognese pasta made from the provisions procured at the local èpicerie. La Maison de Charbonnières (=Charburner's house) although still being closed for the season opens the facility for a lonesome pilgrim. The host helps firing up the wood stove, and voilà it's cosy and I am able to cook.
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| Lunchtime! |
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| Auberive |
**Day 3: Auberive to Grancey-les-Châteaux**
The day starts cold, and I know I’m in for a challenging one with several ascents and descents. The trail takes me through quiet forests, meadows, and small villages. I take a break for lunch in Vivey, layering on all the clothes I can find to fight the icy winds. Arriving in Grancey, I’m rewarded with a cold beer, a hot shower, and a comfortable room at a local guesthouse for pilgrims managed by a very nice couple, both in their late 70s. They cook dinner for me while I settle in and get to end the day with a glass of red wine and a lovely conversation.
**Day 4: Grancey to Marcilly-sur-Tille**
I start the day with a stunning view of Saint-Jean Castle. After some steep climbs and descents, I reach Marey-sur-Tille and enjoy a peaceful lunch by the Tille River. I then push through the final climb to Is-sur-Tille before reaching Marcilly. Unfortunately, the hotel here doesn’t live up to its name, but I make the best of it. An excellent pizza-to-go layered with Merguez sausage and Morbier cheese washed down with a supermarket beer helps celebrating the end of this stage.
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| Marcilly |
**Day 5: Marcilly-sur-Tille to Messigny-et-Vantoux**
The landscape today is more agricultural now, with rolling hills. I take breaks in several villages along the way, and eventually, I reach Messigny. I pick up my pilgrim stamp and settle into a pleasant B&B with a lovely atmosphere. The peaceful surroundings make for a perfect ending to the day. I still carry enough supplies and make myself dinner from cold cuts, cheese, olives and baguette.
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| Trail markers |
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| Messigny |
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| Medieval laundromat |
**Day 6: Messigny to Dijon**
Today’s stage is a bit easier, with gentle ascents and descents. I pass through oak forests and make my way towards Dijon. Once I arrive in the suburbs, I take a bus into the city center, feeling the contrast between the calm of the trail and the hustle of the city. After visiting the Saint Benigne Cathedral and collecting my pilgrim stamp, I enjoy a hearty lunch before heading to a cosy apartment booked via AirBnB in the heart of the old town. To finish off this incredible journey, I devour a delicious plate of Boeuf Bourguignon with a glass of Bourgogne Pinot Noir, marking the perfect end to a memorable pilgrimage.
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| Arrival in Dijon |
