Day Three:Today, my journey takes me through the Schönecker Schweiz, and it truly is a beautiful corner. After my husband drops me off, immediately a great single trail takes me uphill. Even though asphalt and forest roads are reappearing on the high plains, this section is fantastic. Sometimes I walk uphill, then again through a creek valley.
Through the trees, I keep catching glimpses of quirky rock formations… a preview of what’s still to come. A sign tells of an ancient Celtic castle. With a bit of good will, you can see the remnants of a rampart on the hill.
In the next valley, there's a hint of garlic in the air. Apparently, a wonderful wild garlic carpet blooms here in spring. For the first time, I come across a shelter in the middle of the forest; all previous ones were always located nearby parking areas. However, my break in this wetland is brief because I immediately get attacked by horseflies.
Once again, I hike uphill and head towards a desert… at least, that’s what the huge sand pile on the horizon looks like. But the path turns to the right and leads me into a nearly mystical area, the Steinerne Meer (sea of rocks) of Walbert. The impressive rock towers and formations fascinate me.
Eventless but still beautiful, I continue over fields, forests, and meadows. The markings are not always sufficient, so I download the GPX track just in case. Thanks to Belgian network coverage, that’s no problem. It's the German network that isn't available, thanks for nothing Telekom.
For the first time, the destination of the Schneifel Trail appears on the way markers: The city of Gerolstein! Unfortunately, until then, it’s hiking on a "forest highway". The highlight of this section awaits near Birresborn in the ice caves, which can be visited outside of bat protection times. Thanks to my headlamp, I can venture quite far inside. The air suddenly becomes cold and damp. I crawl through a narrow passage. Everywhere, water drips from the ceiling, and down my neck. If rocks could talk… From the ice storage, through the quarrying of millstones, to a refuge in times of need and war, the cave has seen it all.
 |
| ice caves |
Only two more kilometers to go today, which are spiced up with an educational trail. The path is wide, and the descent is gentle. There’s still time for a draft-pulled Radler at the inn Zur Krone, then the SEV (train replacement bus service) takes me to Gerolstein, where I have made reservations in the local youth hostel.
 |
| Birresborn |
A quick stop at a supermarket makes my backpack heavy; I still need to carry the treats uphill. With all my last strength and a tongue hanging to the ground, I finally arrive at the hostel, check in, and enjoy a long shower before indulging in the goodies I brought along.
Day four:Breakfast at half past seven, on the trail at eight o’clock, the bus takes me back to Birresborn. Here, I climb a steep trail upwards. The path is beautiful but unremarkable, especially since after crossing the Kyll river, there’s no water or valley views. The last ascent is tough again; I struggle uphill over a roughly gravelly dirt road. Afterwards, I continue on boring, almost straight forest tracks. Here’s the Grafenkreuz (Count’s Cross), there the forest chapel Büsch, then I’m back at the youth hostel and quickly descend the hill to Gerolstein center. The train has already arrived in its track. Five minutes later, I am on my way home... good timing. And all is right with the world, indeed.
 |
| Back in Birresborn |
 |
| River Kyll |
 |
| Count's cross |
 |
| Büsch chapel |
 |
| View on Gerolstein |
