Find me on the Road (or Trail)

May 29, 2026

In the hood... La Macarena

Although formerly known as a shady district, La Macarena has evolved to a popular, clean and safe neighbourhood, especially for younger people who will infrequently burst out in song and dance just out of zest for life. People watching it the must-do when visiting. We never felt unsafe and it was pleasantly void of your average kind of tourists.

The old city walls stem from the Romans, and remains have been found that can be dated back to the 1st century B.C. But over centuries the walls have been torn down, renewed, expanded and destroyed again.

Especially popular is the urban landmark Metropol Parasol, also known as Las Setas (the mushrooms), a wooden structure designed by the German architect Jürgen Mayer (the name couldn't get more German than that). Under this umbrella or mushrooms if you like you'll find shops, a market place, bars and breweries, and it became our favourite go-to place for food and drinks.

May 28, 2026

España olé!

(May 14th to May 22nd 2026)

A week of vacation awaits. Sis and I are traveling to Andalucia, a province in the south of the Iberian Peninsula. Its capital city is Sevilla, with a population of 1,5 million (metropolitan area) the 4th largest city in Spain, and Flamenco dance central.

Our plan is to spend three days in Sevilla, then rent a car and go on a road trip: first along the route of the white houses (ruta de los pueblos blancos) towards Ronda, stay there for two days and then continue our travels to El Torcal, a nature reserve, in order to wind down and get some hiking under our belts before returning home via Malaga.

We get up at 4 AM, arrive at the airport in Dusseldorf at 5 AM, The flight departs right on time at 7 AM. After an uneventful flight we land in Sevilla at 10 AM. From the airport it's a 35 minute bus ride downtown for 6€. Our accommodation is located right down in the heart of the old city core. Since it's too early for a check-in we have our luggage stored until the rooms are ready and venture out to explore.

At 2 PM we return to the hotel. The room is ready, nice and clean, and although it's a bit of a stretch (out of the window) you can see the cathedal from here. The beds far too comfortable, so we opt for a power nap in order to recharge our batteries.

Sevilla old city can be divided into four districts with different cultural influences. We are staying in El Centro, the historic city center, surrounded by La Macarena in the North (formerly known as red light district but now hip and cool and especially LGBT+ friendly), Santa Cruz, the Jewish town, in the East and - on the other side of the Guadalquivir river - Triana, historically the working class neighbourhood, to the South and West .

The Cathedral and the Alcazar Royal Palace are packed with flocks of tourists waiting in line in the heat of the day. This is not for us, so we circumvent the crowds and flee into the shadowy alleys. And while exploring we enjoy some drinks, preferably an ice cold Tinto de Verano, a mix of red wine and lemonade and delve into the local cuisine in one of those countless tapas bars.

Here are some impressions from our first day walk-around.

Alcazar castle

Sevilla Cathedral

A room with a (limited) view

April 12, 2026

Burgundy turns Beaujolais

We are on the road again, in quest of culinary delight, wine and culture of the French province of Burgundy, or more specifically the Beaujolais wine country between the mountain ranges Massif Central and Auvergne.

Hilda coped well during the eight hour drive down into the heart of France, spending her time mostly snoozing, only to be interrupted by frequent potty breaks.

The weather is awesome, sunny, blue skies, with temperatures around 20°C, ideal for hiking, as I am continuing my trek on the way of St. James with hubby and Hilda serving as part-time company, entertainment and trail taxi.

Day one: Back in Cluny

The founding of the monastery in the 10th century sparked the Benedictine reform in Cluny, through which the monastery life, which had become too worldly, was steered back onto clear religious and moral paths. Only two centuries later, the mother house counted over 1,000 monasteries and became, in the Middle Ages, one of the most important and influential religious movements. I listen to myself, but this time I feel no particular “vibes” that sometimes overwhelm me at historically significant places. Cluny is today a nice place in Burgundy, nothing more (at least for me...).

Day two: The cloudy way to Tramayes

The region is not only famous for its wine but also for the Charolais beef (mostly from free roaming cattle). It is not cheap but so good! The trail follows a hill crest and although elevation itself is low, it adds up over distance.

Day three: Mounting the pass (Col de Crie)

I am walking through dew, getting wet feet but the sun's out and all is well with the world. The path leads up into the Massif Central, which is specifically popular with the pedal powered two-wheel crowd. Lots of spandex warriors on the road (thankfully not on my trail).

Day four: Ain't no mountain high enough

Today's goal is the climb (okay: walk) up to Mount Saint Rigaud, with 1,012 m the highest point of my Way of St. James so far! It's a long way up... Note to myself: Continue improving fitness! Highlight of the day is the holy spring on top of the mountain which is supposed to have healing properties. Maybe it will work for my Charley Horse as well, oh boy, that hurts!

Day five: Rolling downhill

The trail leads gently through fields and farmland down to Charlieu where I visit the former abbey with foundations stemming from the 9th century. In Briennon I say hello again to the river Loire.

Day six: Crossing the Loire valley

The trail remains mostly flat today. La Benisson Dieu abbey must have been a very impressive sight back in the days. The village of Saint-Haon-le-Chatel is a perfect specimen for the typical rustic architecture of the region.

Day seven: Entering the next mountain range (Auvergne)

The area is getting hillier again but with moderate elevation gain. I am now in the heart of Beaujolais country, a red wine that comes with a light, fruity, and fresh aroma of red berries. Saint-Alban-les-Eaux is popular for its mineral water and had been a spa town in the old days. In Saint-Jean-Saint-Maurice-sur-Loire, another picturesque village I finish this section of the Camino after 140 kms.