The Ahr river track

5 days, 110 km, 3600 m altitude difference

Blankenheim

Quo vadis?

1st day: Haunted castle

The trail head is located at the source of river Ahr, smack in the middle of the picturesque village of Blankenheim, where the best of all trail managers leaves me behind after lunch. The path soon leads out of town and into the woods presenting the first of many steep uphill hikes. I am passing the reservoir Freilinger See where isotonic beverages await, but it's crowded there, so I move on after refreshment. The next section brings me up to Hühnerberg, down again and then even higher to to Aremberg, a provincial town with a castle ruin. The Aremberg mountain, a former tertiary volcano rises up to 624m above sea level, and marks the highest point of the Ahr mountains that I am about to cross. Cold northeasterly winds let me seek shelter in the wind shadow of the old walls. But no ghosts tonight but me roaming the ruins.

Freilinger Reservoir

Hühnerberg

Schutzengelkapelle (guardian angel chapel)

Aremberg

Aremberg castle

2nd day: Thrill-seeker

After a quite night I rise up, have breakfast and pack up. Today's section leads me along the steep outer banks of the river, a slim path I would rather not hike in bad weather. The worst sections are secured with steel ropes, but one still needs to tread carefully. Not for the faint of heart, and adrenaline kicks are guaranteed. The sun is out, and the sky is blue. I walk lost in thought, when a chill breeze startles me. I look up and stare into a former railway tunnel mouth... packed with abandoned equipment of a carnival. The wind is howling through the old stuff and leaving eerie noises. A very creepy lost place.

Next stop is the village of Schuld. I am hungry as hell. The town however, is too small for a grocery store and the local pizza place is in closedown. A resident lady seems to notice my despair (I must look very hungry...), invites me into her home, and helps out with cookies, chocolate, an apple and also refills my water bottles. Trail magic at its best.

After another technical section I reach today's destination: "Goldloch", a 17th century copper mine. The mouth has been closed for safety reasons. Signs explain the history of this area. I have a good feeling about this place, pitch my tent and call a pizza delivery service. Pizza and beer arrive only 20 minutes later. 

Schuld

Goldloch

3rd day: Highs and lows

The title does by no means indicate my mental status but the character of today's section. Not very technical but with views, which means, hill climbing, and a lot of it. A clean water source or a store is not to be found in the village of Sierscheid but I am lucky, a resident helps out with a refill. In the high plains of the Ahr mountain range the 360° views are spectacular but involve being out of breath... a lot. I am looking forward to reaching my destination for tonight, a small hotel in the village of Altenahr, which got heavily destroyed in the flooding disaster of summer 2021. The hotel could be rebuilt, other houses where demolished beyond repair. The whole place is still a construction zone two years later. At full awareness of it being VERBOTEN, I cross a damaged bridge, to cut short the last mile into town. A hot shower, a real bed and a nice dinner will make this wonderful hiking day perfect. I have had visions about a steak all day, and my wish is being granted.

Lind

Krippen chapel

Castle Kreuzberg

Altenahr with castle Are

4th day: Jungle cruise

A perfect hotel breakfast provides me with the energy that I will need for the day. There will be plenty and more meters in elevation to be conquered. The original trail in this section has been replaced by a deviation, due to the damages during the flooding. But oh my, what a trail. I am hiking through the jungle, reaching peaks with spectacular views and dive into the green tunnel again. I am in hiker heaven, this is by far the best section. Then the scenery changes to vineyards and farmlands. Down below and at the horizon I spot several villages and towns, meaning people, infrastructure and stores. After replenishment I fast track to my overnight spot, where I find several youngsters partying loudly. I am tired and stay anyway. One of them comes over while I have dinner and asks me whether I plan to stay for the night. I explain that I am on a thru-hike and wish to do so. He talks to his buddies and by 10:30 they are... gone. Awesome people! Silence, at last.

Altenburg

Mayschoss and castle Saffenburg

Rech

Dernau

 

Krausberg tower

Dernau

"Bunte Kuh" rock

Former abbey Calvarienberg

Walporzheim & Ahrweiler

Hiker dinner

5th day: Smooth sailing

Another three hills to go, but I meanwhile have grown my trail legs. The path becomes a cakewalk for me. And speaking of cake, I find a bakery in the village Heimersheim for a break. Another 10 clicks to go. Then I arrive at the trailhead in Sinzig and celebrate my successful thru-hike with a big bowl of ice cream.

Bad Neuenahr

Heimersheim

Rosendorf

St Peter church in Sinzig

Castle Sinzig

You haven't really been somewhere unless you've been there on foot. 

(Johann Wolfgang von Goethe)