Hiking in Lorraine. Vive la France!

Following the signs of the scallop marking the way of St. James I cross the border from Germany to Luxembourg for a short while, then I enter into France. I never see any borderlines, border fences or border guards. If it weren't for the road signs I would not have felt the difference.

Schengen, LUX

The region Lorraine in Northeastern France originated from the Lotharingia kingdom in the 8th and 9th century. In 1766 the region was annexed by France.

Sierck les Bains, F

The scenery is nice and picturesque, the path is smooth and the weather plays along as I continue my trek through a region that I do not know anything about, well except maybe for the famous Quiche Lorraine, a French tart filled with cream, eggs and bacon.

Ouvrage Hackenberg
one of the largest fortifications of the Maginot Line

wild garlic

Boudange

I lay my head to rest in pilgrim's refuges, youth hostels and B&Bs, whatever fits the budget and presents itself. People are friendly and open. I have been offered coffee and snacks, a small talk or the use of the bathroom along the way. 

Porte d'Allemands

Metz has a rich and long history dating back to the Romans two thousand years ago. In the middle ages it became a significant religious center. It is fortified and has a lot of historic buildings and churches to offer, major highlight being the cathedral St. Etienne.

Basilica St. Pierre

Covered Market

Protestant church Temple Neuf

Cathedral St. Etienne with its 42m high ceiling and over 6000 sqm of painted windows

There is not much change in the landscape, and the scenery along the canal reminds me of Southern England, where part of my family lives.

I take a detour in order to visit the reconstruction of a Roman Aqueduct which delivered fresh water from the Moselle hills to Metz. (What have the Romans ever done for us?)

My next stop is in Pont-au-Mousson. Another impressive cathedral, an abbey and a hotel booked for a change.

Cathedral St. Martin

a room with a view

Premonstratensian abbey

Then it starts raining... a lot! The trail is water and mud, slippery and nasty. Thankfully I have a wonderful B&B booked in Liverdun where I can rest my head and clean and dry my gear and clothing.

Moselle View

The final leg of this trek takes me to Toul, another medieval city with a fortification and an old city core. I rains so hard that I decide to keep walking on the (flooded) bicycle path.

Toul cathedral St. Etienne

A walk through the old city.

City fortifications

The next day I return home via Nancy - Metz - Luxembourg - Koblenz, an eight hour journey (including changing trains 4 times plus waiting time) for a hike of 130 kms that took six days.