Three days hiking on the Schneifel-Pfad, or trail of peace. I had assumed that the term Schneifel had something to do with snow (german: Schnee) and the Eifel region, but in fact, it derives from the word "Schneise," meaning "clearing" or "gap," which runs along the same mountain range near the Belgian border and was exposed to territorial conflicts over many centuries, leaving their marks.
Day One:
Recently, when I was on a short vacation with my dog at the Bungalow Park at Kronenburger See, I came across a tattered brochure about the Schneifel Trail, which piqued my interest. Spontaneously, we decided to return to the camp site, this time with our VW camper. Since it was already afternoon, I started the trail at the (non-existent) trailhead in the village Kronenburger Hütte and hiked up to the village of Ormont (French: gold mountain). Initially, the trail runs parallel to a pilgrimage route, ascending the mountain on asphalt, then transitions onto gravel and meadow paths. With a pleasant 22°C, the first few kilometers went by quickly. Alongside the road, I then entered the village and headed straight to the inn “Bei Lonnen,” where I had a dinner date with my Trailmanager. I had Zigeunerschnitzel (Gypsy Schnitzel, yes, that’s what it’s called on the menu). Spicy and delicious! We spent a relaxed evening at the campsite, enjoying the cooling breeze.
Day Two:
The next morning, my husband dropped me off again in Ormont. Here, the Schneifel Trail passes the former Siegfried Line, a Second World War defensive line. The remnants of the tank traps are overgrown with bushes and barely visible, so I content myself with the information on the interpretive panels. Another sign points to a blown-up bunker, but the undergrowth is so dense that I can’t get through. Since the area is fenced off, I refrain from a closer look. The sharp protruding remains of metal beams are warning enough.
On the way to the Schwarzer Mann hill, at 701 meters the highest point in the Schneifel, the trail becomes wonderfully single traily, alas, right next to a busy road filled with the motorized two- and fourwheeled crowds. I stop for a refreshment at the beer garden “Am Blockhaus” and refill my water bottle.
A steep trail with tripping hazards leads me downhill onto a forest road, which is cordoned off with a red-white flag tape. No matter, I think… and walk through. Indeed, the forest here has been somewhat turned upside down, with deep furrows on either side of the path. There are parked forest vehicles and harvesters, and branches and logs are scattered everywhere, but no work is being done today.
After the next ascent, I encounter something I missed on the previous section: a scenic view! A steep asphalt road then takes me down into the village of Gondenbrett. A shady pilgrimage rest area with a picnic table and fountain invites me. A sign indicates that there are toilets for pilgrims and hikers at the St. Dionysius Church, nice gesture.
The trail then leads me up the Katzenkopf (Cat’s Head), which is just as steep but much more trail-like than before. The panorama views from the platform are stunning. I look over to the Calvary Hill, which I still need to get past before reaching my destination: the town Prüm.
In the tunnel system of Calvary Hill, a horrible disaster occurred in 1949 when an explosives depot of the French occupation forces, intended for destroying bunker installations, exploded in a fire, creating a crater in the mountain. I don’t linger long and walk down the asphalt band into the center of Prüm because my bus back to Kronenburg only runs every two hours and doesn't wait for me. I quickly take a finishing photo in front of St. Basil's Basilica and then sprint over to the bus station, arriving just two minutes before departure.
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| Prüm Basilica |
