I got my motorcycle endorsement in 1992 but my first time on a multi-day road trip (what else were you thinking?) wasn't until summer (if you could call it that) 1994 through Southern England, logging in roughly 2,500km.
We left Germany and took the fast lane (Autobahn) to Calais. It was the year of the Euro-Tunnel opening but I didn't feel comfortable traveling almost 40km under water, enclosed by walls, with no escape route. Besides, I love ferry rides. It turned out to be a very stormy one though, but professionally tied up by the ferry personnel no bikes were harmed during transport.
Riding on the left (wrong!) side of the road was so much easier than driving a car on the left. We rode into London, to do the typical tourist stuff (The Tower, Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle etc.), and little did we know about British traffic rules, roundabouts a.k.a. traffic circles, and lane splitting.
In the midst of a traffic jam, a motorcycle officer stopped right beside us, and we were thinking: oh oh! As a matter of fact he explained to us that bikes don't have to wait in traffic (not sure if that rule is still valid). He asked us where we wanted to go, and showed us the way through the pile of cages in downtown London. It was so cool!
It was supposed to be a low budget vacation but the plans to camp were going literally down the drain. It was raining day in day out except for maybe five minutes which we used to dry up and shoot a picture as proof.
Basically it was like: Look an old castle in the rain, oh there another church in the rain. From Brighton to Stonehenge to Lands End and back. Dripping, dropping, we were seeped through, drenched, plain wet most of the time. The wet stuff got everywhere, down the neck, into the boots. I had to wear plastic bags as an additional boot liner.
The motorcycles however did great. My Yamaha SR500 got a lot of attention because of its retro look resembling some 60's Triumph. I liked when people watched me kick-starting the bike on first kick (Oh, how much sweat and bruises it had cost me to look like a pro). I still miss that reliable hotpot.
The Ex rode a Suzuki Intruder, and he was obsessed with the repeat desire to wash the bike, an OCD that seem to come with riding a cruiser. Said bike didn't mind the weather or the regular wash and was doing its job.
Wild animal encounter in Cornwall
Vintage GPS in the tankbag a.k.a. map
Staying in Bed & Breakfasts or little Motels although bad for the budget didn't turn out too bad actually, as people were very helpful, and some of their owners were motorcycle enthusiasts themselves. And folks that speak motorcycle always get along well.
One guy really had us in awe. We arrived at a mansion turned B&B looking like drowned cats leaving a trail of dirt and water pooling on the ground. There was a storm coming in, we were almost blown off our bikes when riding above the white cliffs of Dover and we needed shelter, stat. We didn't care how much the room would cost. Not only did we get the room at a very decent price, he also offered that we could park the motorcycles overnight in the lobby as his garage was already full with vintage vehicles. Needless to say... he was a rider.
The pictures are long lost but the memories last a lifetime.
What actually triggered sharing my first time publicly was this find in Portland, OR:
A Quadrophenia style Lambretta in the Downtown Dr Martens boots store
During this first epic motorcycle trip my used German army boots procured in a shady surplus store were ruined due to constant exposure to British weather. Hence, I took the opportunity and purchased a wonderful pair of Dr Martens boots in a tiny store in St. Ives, Northern Cornwall. I had them a for long time and they were serving me well.
Those high quality boots were made in England back then. If only... but today the product is made in China. Otherwise, I swear I would have purchased a pair of the iconic British shoe ware.






Sonja
ReplyDeleteWhat a trip you had! Love your old bike! The picture with the pony is fabulous, he/she looked very curious. I love riding in the rain, but hate when it puddles in my boots, can't stand soggy toes. I wish I could ride in Europe, not sure how I would cope with riding on the 'wrong side' of the road though. Thanks or the mini vacation!
Sonja
ReplyDeleteWonderful report.
I suppose that you could term the Intruder rider as the Dispousal unit?
It is quite in order to filter (lane split) in UK but it seems the French are trying to outlaw it. My last ride around London involved 26 miles of filtering in heavy rain with a heavily loaded and wide GS!As I had not filtered for over 30 years this was nerve wracking but about 80% of cagers pulled over when they saw my wobbling presence bearing down on them.
When are you coming again?
@Dar: Thanks Dar, it was an awesome little bike indeed. My feet must have grown webs in those soggy socks.
ReplyDelete@Nikos: Dispousal unit? Darn, I didn't think of that! Love it! Lane splitting with cars actually moving out of the way is a great concept, isn't it?
There are plans in the make for traveling to Germany early next year. Maybe our path will cross...
I smiled at your opening paragraph as I too ‘clear the decks’ over winter and do the same type of things as you. It is odd that the two of you chose England for your first long ride, as many would have headed south from Germany to find some summer sun. As you discovered, summers in England are sometimes wet, although thanks to global warming, seem to be getting better. It was excellent that you rode in London on that first long trip!
ReplyDeleteYes, lane splitting is still valid and the policeman was absolutely correct. In fact, in heavy traffic, most bikers choose to ride down the middle of the road, with stationary traffic to the left of us, while actually riding on the wrong side of the road, facing the direction of oncoming traffic. This is perfectly legal providing the white line down the middle of the road is not a solid one, which 95% of the time in large cities it is not. Riding the opposite direction to oncoming traffic isn’t recommended while cars are actually coming towards you (!) but many bikers do this and squeeze in the gap between cars travelling in each direction. No doubt this is scary for those bikers whose own laws say a bike must sit in traffic and only move along at the same as the cars. As you know, traffic congestion in Europe can get so bad, the thought of not being able to lane split is more terrifying than actually doing it, even on a full-sized Harley-Davidson!
I enjoyed reading your somewhat delayed ride report!
maybe...
ReplyDelete@Gary France: Gary, England was a comfort zone for me. I have relatives in Hemel Hempstead, which I visited many times, we somewhat spoke the language, and it wasn't too far away from home for a first trip. Also, we have been told, and that had been proven right, the Brits are motorcycle fanatics. The bike related talks and encounters we had where simply fantastic, and opposite of what we found a year later on the French side of the Channel when traveling through La Bretagne.
ReplyDeleteI used to live in Hemel Hempstead and moved away from there 10 years ago!
ReplyDelete@Gary: You got to be kidding me! Small world. We could have met so many years ago...
ReplyDeleteWonderful memories Sonja and terrific photos too. I've ridden all round the areas you travelled in the UK and all being well in 2013, we'll be back at Point D on your map helping to celebrate my sister in law's 50th anniversary!
ReplyDeleteAlso loved your "Mods and Rockers" scooter. Quadrophenia was a great album and movie!
@Geoff James: Geoff, sounds like a great plan. I keep my fingers crossed that it will happen in 2013.
ReplyDeleteSonja, I love your trips down memory lane. As the winter closes in, I'm counting on you for my reading material.
ReplyDeleteI think all that riding you did in the rain on that trip was a primer for your riding in B.C.
ReplyDeleteThanks for letting us walk down memory lane with you. The pictures are great. Did you scan them or take a digital picture of the photograph?
@David Masse: Thanks David, I will see what my old brain can come up with.
ReplyDelete@Trobairitz: I haven't thought of it that way, but your are absolutely right! The pics were scanned and a bit worked on with picasa.
Great trip report Sonja. I never had the opportunity to ride in England, but while visiting friends in (you guessed it) Hemel Hempstead a few years ago I would look on the bikes and riders with envy thinking how wonderful it would be to ride those roads on two wheels. Perhaps one day....
ReplyDelete@Canajun: One of the mysteries of the universe. A conflux of moto bloggers in and around Hemel Hempstead, England, alas at different points in time.
ReplyDeleteWho would have thought it? Hemel Hempstead, the centre of the motorcycling universe!
ReplyDeleteWell, isn't that how you're supposed to see London, in the rain? :) Riding on the left side of the road...don't know if I could get used to that. Great photo series - Thanks for sharing the trip down memory lane.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteIt's been really nice to look through your back catalogue of clicks ...really enjoying the reading and pictures............it was well worth posting.
thank you
len