Looping the Fjord

7.9. Part one: The Saguenay Fjord loop would be my first real riding day. No agenda has been laid out for the day, but I keep my eyes open to sights and detours along the way. And only a few miles down route 172 a sign points into the direction of a covered bridge.

This bridge is located in Sacre-Coeur, was built in 1934, and named after one Louis Gravel. So says the sign. I ride through and make a U-turn as the track doesn't go anywhere. However, I always wanted to ride a covered wooden bridge like this one.

Every so often I stop to admire the scenery (you can't really do that when your mind is on the road, right?). Signs remind of deer and moose crossing but thankfully I haven't seen any of these. Four-legged and two-wheeled encounters are usually not coming with happy endings.

As I cruise along the byway I start contemplating about how I expected this trip to be, and this is it. Solitary riding, no cars in sight, lots of scenery with mountains, lakes and rivers. Coming to think of it, it's a bit intimidating too, if your mind starts playing the "what if..." game.

View on Saguenay

I arrive in Chicoutimi for a tea stopover at Tim's, and discover the cross of Sainte-Anne, erected to protect those how cross the Saguenay river. The legend has it that in the big fire of 1870 the fire stopped just in front of the cross... well, some holy story, eh?

Food options become scarce in the area. It's Labour Day and all supermarkets are closed. I wonder why, as this is for most an opportunity to actually go shopping... must be a French thing. Thankfully I have some leftovers and fruit, and find an open drug store to stock up on beverages.

In Roberval I check into the Castile, a decent motel at the lakeshore of Lac Saint-Jean and call it a day. I go for a stroll at the lake, watch the sunset, and think to myself: Life is good!

The Fjord Loop

8.9. Part two: Sometimes the early bird gets screwed. I arrive half an hour too early at the Val Jalbert visitor center. As the season changes so change the business hours. At 10am I am one of the first visitors to be let in. Time to visit a ghost town.

The town of Val Jalbert nearby Chambord was founded in 1901 when a pulp mill was built in the area. Workers would live where they work, and they could bring their families along. There was a school, a warehouse, a post office and of course the pulp mill. The houses came with sanitation and electricity, which was still fairly uncommon in the area.

The nearby Ouiatchuoan Falls were used as an energy source for the turbines generating energy for the pulp mill. Above the falls a dam was built in order to control the water flow. All in all technically very advanced for its days.

Maligne Falls

View on Lac Saint-Jean

26 years went by, and suddenly the mill turned out to be no longer profitable. the workers left, and the buildings were abandoned until the area was turned into a park in 1960, and most of the houses were reconstructed.

I'd say this place is well worth a visit for those who love to learn about industrialization, history and of course for those (like me) who are into waterfalls. And the Ouiatchuoan Falls are mighty impressive. All the maintenance and continuing restoration comes with a price. All in all for me it were 31$ well spent.

It is noon and I need to continue my journey. After a pit stop in La Baie I set course for Saint Simeon, in order to take the ferry to Rivière du Loup.

On the way I almost run over a porcupine, and not sure if its spikes could damage the tires I rather avoid hitting it.

Saying my goodbyes to the fjord at Little Saguenay, I roll off toward the St. Lawrence river, which has become so wide that no bridge can span it. As the river widens the ferries take over the job.

I arrive in time for the last ferry of the day at 5.30pm and land in Rivière du Loup shortly before 7pm.

Crossing St. Lawrence River

At Motel Loupi, five minutes away from the landing, I find the end of my day. No problem to get a room, it's all empty and I am the only guest. Season seems indeed over...

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Die deutsche Version gibt es hier mit Teil1 und Teil2.