18. + 19.9. I got a lot of riding done in the previous two days. The first leg took me up the east coast from Lunenburg to Port Hawkesbury. From there I had the perfect starting position for next day's conquering of the Cabot Trail.
The Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island is one of the most scenic rides in North America (featured in USA Today's 10 best Readers' Choice for best motorcycle Trip in 2014).
I am eager to get going, and ready for the road by 7:30am. It is still foggy, but the sun is already poking holes into the mist.
The 300km route offers spectacular vistas of the coast and the ocean, and twists and turns through the Cape Breton Highlands. It starts in Baddeck, location of the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site (sorry, other priorities, and lack of time).
Thanks to another rider's suggestion I am going to do the loop counterclockwise, with the oceanside on the right. This will make it a safe and easy access every time I want to get to the viewpoints. Also, most tourists to go clockwise, which saves me from getting stuck behind a Diesel spitting RV or tour bus.
On entering the Cape Breton National Park I ask the warden/attendant about gas stations within the park and she recommends to fill up at Neils Harbour: By doing so I am able to dodge a road construction causing major delays, and get in front of the line-up.
The trail continues to be a cornucopia of sights. I try to multitask by paying attention to traffic, the course of the road, and the vistas at the same time. It's not easy, I can tell.
Around noon I reach trail's northernmost point. And while the eastern side was calm, the wind is blowing strong on the west coast.
The Shadow performs and handles extraordinarily well through these twists and turns, uphill and downhill, the only downside being the backfiring from the exhaust when using the engine brake. Thanks to the powers that be I am on my own most of the time. The noise is rather embarrassing, and will need fixing some time before the next trip.
For my lunch break I negotiate a gravel road down to the beach. After I having met my nemesis a few days ago (the slippery red dirt road on P.E.I.) rocks and gravel don't bother me anymore. And bonus, there is nobody here, all mine ;-)
The Cabot Trail becomes easier as I meander south along the coast, the road less twisty, and less rolling, and then it's over. From now on I follow the Ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee) Trail.
I finish my round trip in Antigonish, catch the last room in a neat and clean little motel called Oasis and - after the usual routine of checking the bike - have dinner (yam fries and salad) in the Brownstone Cafe downtown.
I crawl to bed and call it a day at 9pm, worn out and tired, but in a good way. Hey, I did the Cabot Trail. And it was awesome! Another item crossed off the bucket list. Would I do it again?
Yes, in an instant. Maybe clockwise, to get a different perspective.
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| Route Sep 18 |
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| Route Sep 19 |
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Hierzu gibt es zwei Berichte auf meiner Kanada-Seite:
Teil 1 - Fahrtag
Teil 2 - Cabot Trail
Ed, I haven't decided yet what is my favourite. I really liked the west coast of Gaspe, but the Saguenay Fjord loop was also great, so was meandering up the St. Lawrence.
ReplyDeleteDue to your previous experience I was carefully watching out for debris on the road. But it was all good, no obstacles.
VERY nice job documenting the Cabot Trail! Good deal doing it CCW to avoid the traffic.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Dom. Met two riders from Maine today who were on there way up to Cabot Trail. Recommended to do the same.
DeleteCongrats! I did the Cabot Trail with a group of my riding-buddies. We enjoyed it, too.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Ally. It's a bucket-list item, isn't it?
DeleteWow stunning photos Sonja. I would love to ride those roads. It reminds me of the Great Ocean Road back home here in Australia, very similar looking.
ReplyDeleteSo, you would feel like home, eh? Temperatures might be different, though...
DeleteAwesome pics again Sonja. And good on you for tackling that gravel road. Gravel isn't so bad as long as it isn't fresh deep stuff. Looking forward to seeing where you head next.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Brandy. As you said, as long as it isn't deep stuff. Bay of Fundy will be next to tackle on my list.
DeleteI too have enjoyed the Cabot trail both by motorcycle and by RV. Much prefer it on the bike - the RV ride was really hairy!!!!
ReplyDeleteI have seen big motorhomes struggling to negotiates the bends, Karen. It sure is not easy to drive a big rig on the trail.
DeleteLovely! I'll have to add that to my list.
ReplyDeleteDo it, Kathy, if you can. It is well worth the journey.
DeleteWow looks great and how about that weather!
ReplyDeleteIt probably looks warmer than it was...
DeleteMagnificent scenery and aren't you just clocking up the miles - I'm having trouble keeping up with all your escapades! I wonder whether this is going to give you regular wanderlust - you have the south island of NZ to tick off yet :-) . Safe travels.....
ReplyDeleteSure there is some mileage included, Geoff, I usually spend up to 5 hours in the saddle, plus 2-3 hours walking or sightseeing.. long days. Just hit the 5,000km mark by the way.
DeleteIt's wonderful following along Sonja.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to the next instalment.